EL MAGNIFICO

Shaping Spain's Coffee Culture

“Magnifico is not fashion; we are old, but we have style. It’s like jazz—it evolves over time but stays true to its roots,” Salvador says, moments before hurrying to a family meeting. His daughter and wife, already halfway out the door, return once more to say goodbye for the third time. Their hospitality is unmatched—genuine and open in a way that reminds me of the warmth I’ve experienced with Latin American coffee producers and their families. Later, as I sit upstairs in their office, surrounded by an abundance of coffee-related books, memories from origin trips, and the finest coffee equipment, I reflect on the day spent with the Magnifico team—a day full of insight, generosity, and unapologetic dedication.

In this article, we’ll take you through the heart of El Magnifico: starting with a closer look at their family legacy and commitment to quality coffee, followed by an inside view of their roastery. We’ll dive into Claudia and Salvador’s values around education and sourcing, examine how Magnifico defines its own path amidst industry trends, and close with a celebration of Spain’s unique and vibrant specialty coffee scene.

Barcelona roots, modern roasts

The Heritage of El Magnifico

El Magnifico is a Barcelona-based family business, now in its second and third generation. Since its founding in 1962, it has remained committed to traceable, quality coffee. A pioneer in Spain’s specialty movement, Magnifico combines legacy and tradition with progressive forward momentum. Trabocca has been a proud sourcing partner for decades, when Menno met Salvador during a coffee festival in Amsterdam. Shortly after, Trabocca issued the first contract with El Magnifico in September 2006 – two washed lots from Yirgacheffe, a Kenya AA from Nyeri, and Red Bourbon from Rwanda.

From Legacy to Loring

Inside the Magnifico Roastery

Barcelona, 18th of March, 8:30. Catching a last glimpse of the Sagrada Familia as I am heading into the industrial side of the city to visit the El Magnifico production space. Claudia, 3rd generation of the Sans family and responsible for sourcing and quality, welcomed me at the roastery with a warm hug. She then introduces me to Oriol and Gaspar, who showed me around their clean, modern roasting facility. A coffee warehouse, two Loring roasters (35 and 70 kg), and a state-of-the-art cupping fill the space. Together, Oriol and Gaspar roast an impressive volume of approximately 1,900 kg in just two production days per week.

Books, Borders, and Big Ideas

The effect of traveling in origin

Finally, we share a first cup of coffee- a washed Colombia from Tablon de Gomez. Before I even think about taking a photo, we are already heads down in an hour-deep conversation about traveling to origin. Claudia shares a story from her 2017 Trip to Ethiopia with Trabocca and her habit of bringing home a book from every origin she visits. On this trip it was a book from a Kenyan writer on decolonization, that later would even shift the focus of her master’s thesis she was working on. The book—on post-colonial thought—challenged her to think more critically about global sourcing relationships and ethical storytelling in coffee. Her curiosity on social, sustainable, and economical dynamics reflects the same mindset I would later see in her father Salvador: always learning, always evolving.

The Legacy Store in El Born

After visiting the production facility, we took the metro into the city center to visit their legacy shop in El Born. On the way, Claudia and I talked about the ups and downs of running a family business and shared how her father grew El Magnifico from a small operation into a 30+ employee team. Arriving in the heart of Barcelona, I see the store as small and unassuming at first. But as we enter, I am impressed. Downstairs sits the little Italian roaster Salvador used in the early days. Upstairs you can find a big office and coffee lab, where an extensive library and coffee relics tell the story of decades in the trade. “Don’t judge a book by its cover”, says Claudia once we arrive. She then introduces me to her father.

Beyond buzzwords

Education in coffee

During our conversation Salvador keeps referencing his collection of coffee literature. When talking about coffee you immediately spot the passion in his eyes. “After all these years I still love coffee. I love the people, history, geography, and agronomics of coffee. The industry keeps me excited, because it’s always evolving dynamically. Each year, there is something new to learn about.”

When I ask him about the most influential book, he proudly shows me his signed copy of Les Cafes Produits Dans Le Monde. “To Salvador Sans with whom I am happy to share our passion for the great Arabica coffees. With all my friendship, Philippe Jobin”. In matter of fact, Salvador helped the author with the Spanish translation and could become part of one of his biggest inspirations. Then we go through old magazines from Kenyan Bulletin and we chat about the differences in availability of information nowadays versus when he began.

“Today we’re flooded with information,” Salvador says. “But that doesn’t mean it’s good information.” He and Claudia reflect on how accessible coffee education has become—but also how fast and shallow it can be. The rise of the specialty movement has brought a stream of trends and strong opinions, often based more on hype than substance. Loud claims like ‘direct trade’ or oversimplified narratives dominate feeds yet rarely reflect the complexity of sourcing relationships.

Stay true to yourself

Trends fade; values don't.

“Ten years ago, everyone said ‘death before decaf,’ now people want filter-roast decaf with florals.” The same has happened with blending—once frowned upon, now in face of the market volatility a craft that is gaining in popularity again. Trends come and go, Claudia says, but what’s important is to remain open-minded without compromising your beliefs.

For Magnifico, it’s all about doing things with full conviction, while staying curious about why things shift. Their mission remains constant: make great coffee accessible, grounded in trust, knowledge, and a deep respect for both: those at origin and those at home. “For example, we want to renovate this shop but when we do so we will respect our surrounding environment and our own tradition. “, says Salvador. “With our sourcing, we want to do the same.”, adds Claudia. “The goal is to represent producers, their origin, and their coffee in the most transparent and authentic way possible.”

Traceable coffee in 1991

Not just a trend.

When talking about the biggest shifts in the coffee market, Salvador references the Cup of Excellence. He himself was one of the judges from the very beginning of the competition. In the office you find not only his but also Claudia’s name embroidered on the COE aprons that are framed and hang on the wall. “It’s about awarding outstanding quality and putting the producer in the spotlight.”, says Salvador. 

This time Claudia runs over to the library and comes back with a menu of El Magnifico‘s Café from 1991. A well curated list of 10+ coffees featuring Ethiopia Sidama, Costa Rica Tarrazu, Papua NeuGuinea and many more. Alongside the coffee locations you find information on taste profile and in some cases even as detailed as input on variety and altitude. Seeing a menu this detailed, from a time I wasn’t even born, makes me feel positive that conscious consumption and specialty coffee is not only a momentary trend but always existed.

Vermouth vs Sake

The Spanish Palate

Claudia explains the Spanish taste palate through the lens of local food culture. “In Asian countries, fermented foods and drinks like kimchi, vinegars, and sake are common, which sharpens the ability to detect sour and umami flavors—something you also see reflected in their coffee preferences,” she says. “Here in Spain, it’s different. Comparing sake to vermouth, our preferred drink choice is sweet and rich with a touch of acidity and floral bitterness. That alongside our food culture shapes how we appreciate coffee too.”

What Claudia says resonates with my experience. The Spanish coffee scene has developed a clear identity—distinct from the ultra-bright, high-acidity style found in parts of Northern Europe. During my visit, most of the coffees I tasted were rich, round, and focused on mouthfeel, sweetness, and flavor depth. Roasts often carried slightly longer development, delivering full-bodied cups that retained refreshing acidity, clarity, and character. The result is a style of sourcing and roasting that is unmistakably Spanish—elegant, grounded, and refreshingly confident in its own direction.

Why the world should be watching Spain's Coffee Scene

"Barcelona should host a World of Coffee," Salvador states. "The Spanish scene is unique. We don’t copy anyone but create our own style of flavor. The coffee world should recognize this." By now, Nomad Roasters finally gained worldwide recognition. But a lot has happened in the last few years. The Spanish coffee scene is growing in high tempo. While El Magnifico helped to lay the groundwork for traceable and quality-focused sourcing you now find an abundance of new brands popping up. Roasters like Right Side, Tornado, Syra, Three Marks, Ineffable, and countless others represent Spain’s global rise in the specialty scene.

As Claudia and Salvador head off to their family obligations, I linger upstairs in the office, surrounded by coffee relics and awards. This isn’t just a roastery and cafe; it’s a living archive, where El Magnifico blends tradition, design, and forward-thinking sourcing with heart. I leave with gratitude—for the hospitality, for the shared values, and for this community that makes coffee more than just a drink. It makes it a culture worth preserving and celebrating. I can’t wait to be back in Spain.

in pursuit of great coffee.