Tesfaye’s washed and naturals herald the Guji flavor. For nearly a decade, we have cupped and enjoyed his coffees and seen many roasters appreciate Suke profiles. Today, Tesfaye has a new trick up his sleeve; a peachy, tea-like pulped natural Guji-1 (Organic/Rainforest Alliance certified).
The pulped natural, or honey-processed coffee, has the acidity of the washed and the body of the natural Suke’s; best of both worlds. Peach, bergamot, lime, pineapple, and hibiscus can be found in the cup. A delicate honey-infused aftertaste reveals the round sweetness that pulped naturals often deliver.
Visit MyTrabocca, search for PBO190076-02, and order Tesfaye’s pulped natural online. As mentioned earlier, it is a small lot. So, we only have 85 bags on spot.
Tesfaye is hesitant to share his pulped natural recipe because other growers might copy his well-crafted method. “Coffee processing is becoming a very competitive business in Guji”, Tesfaye elaborates. However, he is willing to lift the veil just a little so we can have a peek in his processing kitchen.
Preparing the pulped coffees at Suke Quto is a 24-hour rat race. Everything needs to be done within this time-frame. No room for slacking. The cherries that are meant for pulped natural processing have priority. Tesfaye plans these production days well ahead during harvest.
Pickers deliver the cherries at Tesfaye’s station and floaters are immediately separated from the quality cherries. Then, the pulping machine separates the skin and reveals the mucilage covered parchment. Another round of floater elimination occurs, and parchment is divided by grade 1 and 2.
The Grade 2 is processed as a washed coffee. “Within the pulped natural process, I only use Grade-1 coffees.”, Tesfaye explains. He reserves a few drying beds and instructs his employees to spread the parchment thinly. A thickness of one-centimeter suffices. This ensures that all coffee beans dry evenly.
After 15 to 17 days the parchment leaves the beds to rest in Tesfaye’s warehouse. The last stop before coffee milling.
Tesfaye’s prime reason for processing pulped natural coffees is to influence the cup characteristics. Pulped coffees highlight favorable Guji flavors and cup attributes. Peach, for instance, is a common flavor found in washed Guji coffees. The pulped version enhances the intensity of peach in the cup.
The acidity of pulped Suke’s is less pointy. Instead, it is more subtle, round, and full. The body of the pulped Suke’s resembles that of a natural. However, it tends to be lighter and balanced. Overall a sweet cup with typical notes like peach, pineapple, and a pleasant body.